Chamber Heater

When printing using filaments like ABS on 3D printers that are not enclosed, the print can suffer from issues like poor bed adhesion and warping. To print these type of filaments, the print bed needs to be enclosed and the temperature within the enclosure needs to stay at a constant temperature usually higher than the ambient temperature.

This project is a remix of 3D Printer Enclosure Heater by pilletta. The "Riscaldatore_v16.stl" case bottom file has been redesigned as follows:

• The C8 power clip-in socket has been replaced with screw in type for better robustness.
• The Power switch has been replaced with a KCD1 Rocker Switch 21x15mm
• The 240VAC to 12VDC power module has been replaced with a 10W version and a mount has been added to the bottom of the case.
• A Four way X3-1012 Nylon Terminal Block has been added to the case to tidy up the wiring.

Parts

All the parts were sourced from Ali-Express.

3D printing

As mentioned in pilletta's original version, the case should be printed using either ASA or ABS filament as other types of filament may deteriorate during the heating process. Layer height is 0.2mm with no supports and a brim is highly recommended.

Construction

I used Brass Hot Melt Insert nuts throughout the build.

• 2 off M3 x 4.2mm Diameter, 3mm Deep
• 6 off M3 x 4.2mm Diameter, 4mm Deep
• 6 off M3 x 5mm Diameter, 5mm Deep

I added a four-way X3-1012 10A barrier terminal strip which is held in place using 2 x 10mm M3 screws.

When using barrier terminal connectors with high voltages or high currents, I strongly recommend using Ferrules when screwing in the cables. (See TO FERRULE OR NOT TO FERRULE).

Insert the temperature sensor in the hole provided in the top and secure the top using 5 x M3 6mm screws.

Conclusion

Thank you pilletta for publishing your project. It works really well at regulating the heat in an enclosure.