This is PART 2 of the Tic-Tac-Toe PIC16F627A project. On PART 1 I described the circuit operation, and the basic program flow. In this new section I will propose a possible "good looking" enclosure build for the device with large back-lit buttons. Here you will also find the links to the PCB, Hex code, Assemby (ASM) code, and the .cdr file for laser cutting the top panel.
Main materials are:
- Wood moulding for frame (details later)
- Acrylic buttons (details later)
- Acrylic top panel (laser cut)
Other materials: PCB circuit board & components, bottom cover, 3 AA cell holders, nuts&bolts, screws, varnish, glue etc.
Cross section dimensions of the moulding for the enclosure frame
Cut 4 sides of frame at 45° angle on ends. Edge where panel rests should be 142 mm long. Glue parts together and hold in place with masking tape. Verify right angles.
Download .CDR (corel draw) file for laser cutting of top panel. Panel is fastened to frame with 8 wood-screws.
PCB is attached to panel with (4) 1/8" thread, 1.5" length bolts & nuts. Clearance between PCB and panel is 7/8". Use spacers or double nut.
Acrylic buttons are cut from 20 mm diameter transparent acrylic rod. Button length is 20 mm. All faces have a frosted finish for light diffusion, except the bottom face where LED light enters which is polished. Drill a 3 mm diameter & 3 mm deep hole on bottom face to fit the switch stem. Use a little silicone glue if necessary.
Glue the (3) AA cell holders around the inside of frame
14 mm x 14 mm particle wood. ( 3 mm thick )
- Wake : Press center button. After splash, all buttons flash 3 times with player 1 color.
- Reset : Press center button for 2 seconds anytime.
- 3-in-a-row : Winning pattern blinks. Reset with middle button.
- Sleep : Game shuts down after 20 seconds of inactivity.
- PCBoard & Hex code: https://goo.gl/2WcVBM
- Top panel corel CDR: goo.gl/arD1j3
- Part 1 video: https://youtu.be/DVL3ryTkjgI
- Part2 video: https://youtu.be/AKwD0E7XRUA