This is PART 2 of the Tic-Tac-Toe PIC16F627A project. On PART 1 I described the circuit operation, and the basic program flow. In this new section I will propose a possible "good looking" enclosure build for the device with large back-lit buttons. Here you will also find the links to the PCB, Hex code, Assemby (ASM) code, and the .cdr file for laser cutting the top panel.Part 1 Video:Part 2 Video:Materials:
Main materials are:
- Wood moulding for frame (details later)
- Acrylic buttons (details later)
- Acrylic top panel (laser cut)
Other materials: PCB circuit board & components, bottom cover, 3 AA cell holders, nuts&bolts, screws, varnish, glue etc.
Cross section dimensions of the moulding for the enclosure frame
Cut 4 sides of frame at 45° angle on ends. Edge where panel rests should be 142 mm long. Glue parts together and hold in place with masking tape. Verify right angles.Join Parts:
Download .CDR (corel draw) file for laser cutting of top panel. Panel is fastened to frame with 8 wood-screws.
PCB is attached to panel with (4) 1/8" thread, 1.5" length bolts & nuts. Clearance between PCB and panel is 7/8". Use spacers or double nut.
Acrylic buttons are cut from 20 mm diameter transparent acrylic rod. Button length is 20 mm. All faces have a frosted finish for light diffusion, except the bottom face where LED light enters which is polished. Drill a 3 mm diameter & 3 mm deep hole on bottom face to fit the switch stem. Use a little silicone glue if necessary.
Glue the (3) AA cell holders around the inside of frame
14 mm x 14 mm particle wood. ( 3 mm thick )
- Wake : Press center button. After splash, all buttons flash 3 times with player 1 color.
- Reset : Press center button for 2 seconds anytime.
- 3-in-a-row : Winning pattern blinks. Reset with middle button.
- Sleep : Game shuts down after 20 seconds of inactivity.
- PCBoard & Hex code: https://goo.gl/2WcVBM
- Top panel corel CDR: goo.gl/arD1j3
- Part 1 video: https://youtu.be/DVL3ryTkjgI
- Part2 video: https://youtu.be/AKwD0E7XRUA