DIY Logitech Pure Fi Anywhere 2 Rebuild and Mini Bluetoot...

One of my Most Favorite this to do, is taking something I find cheap at a Goodwill, Yardsale, or even craigslist and making something better out of it. Here I found an old Ipod docking station Logitech Pure-Fi Anywhere 2 and decided to give it a new look and upgrade it with a Bigger Battery and Bluetooth. If you follow me on Youtube or even here on tutorials, you will see a lot of the goodies I purchase and later upgrade with something to bring new life in an old product. Stay tuned as I have an even better Ipod/iPhone docking station I plan to upgrade down the road!!

This build wouldn't have been possible without the partnership of JLCPCB. One of the cheapest Largest Manufacturers in China! Get your 2$ PCB at JLCPCB here-https://jlcpcb.com/

Along with the Hobby Wood, most of the parts cost was well under 10$, including the 4.99 speaker purchase.

Supplies:

5V Micro USB 1A 18650 TP4056 Lithium Battery Charging Board with Protection Charger Module

https://www.amazon.com/CHENBO-Lithium-Battery-Char...

USB Bluetooth Audio Music Receiver, 3.5mm Wireless Bluetooth 2.1 + EDR USB AUX Audio Music Receiver Adapter (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/Tuscom-Bluetooth-Receiver-W...

SPDT 2 Way ON ON Guitar Mini Toggle Switch UL Car/Boat Switches

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JDUB8JY/?ref=idea_lv_...

5.5mm x 2.1mm 3 Pin Female DC Power Jack Panel Mount Screw Nut Kit DC Socket Electrical Plug

https://www.amazon.com/TOTOT-5-5mm-Female-Socket-E...

Step 1: Take Apart the Logitech Pure-Fi Anywhere 2

The Build is actually pretty simple only because I plan to use the amp, speakers and Passive speakers. The only parts I really need to add is the battery and Bluetooth. But to start, we need to take the speaker apart. This version has a plastic layer to protect and hide the screws on the front. Taking a small flat metal ruler, I was able to slip it between and pry the plastic off. Next, I start removing screws from the face. But before I get too far into the build I supplied power to the speaker using the battery protection and it worked great. So I finished removing the screws on the inside that held the speakers and amp in place. Once I had all the insides I plan to use, I discarded the case in the recycle bin. I ended up with an amp, that had 2 sections, the speakers, the passives and the button panel I planned to reuse.

Step 2: Precut the Wood and Marked All Cutouts

I had some leftover wood from a previous project and it seemed to be the perfect size for the face and back. I just took some extra 3 x 1/4" hobby wood and cut to use as the frame for the sides. Ended up being 3 1/2" x 8 1/2 for the face and the sides 3 x 3, with the top being 8 1/2 x 3. I then place a small piece of masking tape down the middle, so I could mark the cutouts. I like using tape, just encase I mess up, I can always add a new piece of tape. I plan to have one passive front and center, and back and center. Then I took what was leftover and added the speaker center on each side of the face wood piece. It's really important to keep things as centered as possible.

Step 3: Make a Bracket to Sit the Amp On

The amp is kinda offset and wouldn't sit well on the back panel. So I used some 1/4 x 1/4 pieces of wood to create a frame I could place on the inside. Once I cut to size, I glued them together and dropped inside to make sure the amp and frame fit.

Step 4: Mark and Cutout the Button Panel and Glue in the Amp Bracket

I tried to position the button panel where it set far enough back to not get in the way and line up with the amp. Then using Masking tape, I marked the cutout lines. Starting with a small drill bit, and working to a bit the size of the cut-out, I drilled 2 small holes and finished up with a jigsaw. Then using a File, I cleaned up the edges and fit the button in place. Now that I know where the panel is going to go, I can glue in the Amp bracket. Last picture just shows me dry fitting to make sure everything lines up still.

Step 5: Hole Saw the Drivers on the Face and Back

I took a small hole punch and punched the center of the speakers and passive drivers. Then took the appropriate hole saw and cut them out. With my DIY Dremel Table, I cleaned up with a drum sander and then gave them a 1/8 bullnose with a round-over bit.

Step 6: Make the 3P1S Lipo Battery Upgrade

The battery that came in this was a 22-2600mah Li-ion battery, but no longer worked. To save on space, I took 3 x 1500-1800mah Lipo and put them in Parallel. So the Bluetooth power comes from the TP4056 protection side, and I used the original protection(to power the amps) and then added 2 extra wires to go to the TP4056. The Tp4056 will only charge the battery, but use the protection side to power the Bluetooth keeping them isolated from each other for no feedback. It's like adding 2 protection circuits to one battery. (didn't know if it would work till I tested later) So I am basically using the same battery system they used, only upgraded.

Step 7: Add the Front and Back Speakers and Passives

Using Hot glue, I added the front 2 speakers and the middle passive. The passive speaker had some weird angles on the face of the speaker I had to use a Dremel to cut some of the wood way for a flat fit. Once I got each driver in place, I made sure to seal with hot glue.

Step 8: Secure the Button Panel

Because the button panel had nothing to screw into, I had to add small wood pieces across the top and glue in. Later I will use hot glue to make sure there are no air leaks. I had to make sure wood pieces cleared the speakers.

Step 9: Re-wire the IR Eye for Panel Mount

I just simply cut and soldered 3 small wires, so I could put the IR eye anywhere I needed. Once I finished the IR eye, I cut out the spot where I planned to put the IR remote and then drilled a hole so I could potion it after I glue it up later. I'll have to wait till I add the front panel.Then I screwed and glued in the amp

Step 10: Prep and Add the Bluetooth and TP4056

I add wire to the small components, making sure to take off the USB part of the Bluetooth. Once everything was prepped, I decided where to place the switch used to power the Bluetooth only and the DC jack used to power the TP4056. Then I drilled and added them. To keep the Bluetooth Isolated, I will connect the battery jumpers from the amp, to the Tp4056, just fir charging the battery. Then I added a power switch between the Bluetooth the protection circuit of the TP4056. I connected the DC jack to the power in of the TP4056. Then I added FiberOptic cable to the Tp4056 led and ran them to the outside of the back panel and cut flush with nippers.

Step 11: Solder in the Speakers and Glue Front Panel

I left all the old speaker wires there and these were color-coded. So I simply soldered them in and then glued the IR eye in the place. I then used wood glue on the face and added batteries to hold in place. Let Dry and then start on the other side.

Step 12: Solder and Glue the Back Panel

All that should be left is the back panel. I soldered the positive and negative to the TP4056 and then plugged in the jumper from the amp to the Bluetooth. Did a quick test to make sure everything worked and then Glued and clamped the back panel. Waited for it to dry before the next step

Step 13: Add a Few Coats of Clear and Rubber Feet

Last I taped up and then added a few coats of Clear. I really like to use clear coat when using Poplar wood. Then I let dry inside and once it was complete, I pulled off the tape and I added rubber feet to all 4 corners at the bottom.

Step 14: Turn the Power on and Test!! Enjoy!!!

While this does not have the thunderous bass as my previous builds. It does sound great for a Bluetooth Speaker. The video above was my very first test and the Video does not do the Speaker justice. Great sound and It was fun to build. Now on to my next project!! Make sure to like Subscribe to my channels, Youtube and tutorial to see what I will do next!!! Thanks for reading and watching my Video!! I hope you enjoy !!!