This is my latest Pedal Set for Sim Racing. The design is based on a simple idea, keeping the price as low as possible, without sacrifising quality, strenght, modulation and sensibility. this meant that using a loadcell for the brake pedal was mandatory, but a clever design solution allowed to use the loadcell as the pedal arm itself, removing every piston, and complex linkage usually found in brake pedals, that make their prices extremely high, starting from around 200€ for a basic set of off the shelf brake and throttle bundles.
this design solution allowed to keep the price as low as 50€, and you can find a complete part list with links to all the components needed above, or here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1TTDl9up72q_5Jbs0JmLEz_iDRl3pN0QXA2chLiGJGKQ/edit?gid=0#gid=0
you can get the 3D models and arduino code here: https://cults3d.com/:3617910
- Throttle: the throttle is just a basic spring-loaded leverage, and the design is kept super simple by using a bicycle brake cable that wraps around the bottom section of the pedal, and pulls on a strong tension spring when the pedal gets pressed. A hall sensor is used to read the pedal position thanks to a magnet slotted inside of it.
- Brake: the brake is where most of the cost is saved, with an original design that uses the 150kg loadcell as the pedal arm itself, with a footpad on one end, and a leverage on the other that presses on a spring (to simulate the initial freestroke) and on some bushings (to simulate the final mm of movement where the actual braking happens)
- Clutch: the clutch is identical to the throttle, with the lower pulley shaped to provide the classic over-center feel of a real clutch pedal, also using a hall sensor to read its position.
Every component can be 3D printed without any special need, and you can find the 3D models here (including also the circuit diagram and arduino code): https://cults3d.com/:3617910
The Build Process:Building these pedals is extremely straightforward and can be done by anyone without any major skills, just a 3D printer and a soldering iron.
I suggest starting with the brake, by screwing the footpad and main leverage onto the 150kg loadcell using four M8 countersunk bolts, after which it can be mounted to the main axle, adding the two arms that will hold the bushings and spring in place. Using two SK8 blocks it can be securely mounted to a plywood sheet to provide for a strong base. Adding the bushings, spring, and end stop completes the brake build, it's literally that simple!
Moving on to the throttle, it's just a matter of sliding it onto the main axle, threading the brake cable through the appropriate hole, and making a loop where the spring will hook. Finally, the hall sensor can be added to its holder, along with the pulley that keeps everything aligned, and the magnet that allows the sensor to correctly read pedal position.
The clutch is very similar to the throttle in its construction and can be assembled in almost the exact same way. The only differences are adding a nail to the lower pulley to manage the higher cable tension (and avoid breaking the plastic), and screwing on the footpad — which, in this case, is identical to the brake pedal one. Mine are CNC-machined, but 3D-printed ones will work with zero problems.
These pedals truly punch above their price point, offering feel and modulation that rival much more expensive, premium pedal sets. The brake modulation is superb, and both throttle and clutch feel can be finely adjusted to deliver your preferred feedback, allowing you to enjoy driving, wether it will be drifting, racing or rally.











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