Published May 29, 2021 © LGPL

Magpie Sci Goggles

Ever want a new fun Sci-Fi wear for you costume or cosplay well I hope you enjoy this.

IntermediateFull instructions provided3 days1,565

Things used in this project

Hardware components

-Goggles

3d printer

Any 3D printer could do

E6000, Transparent glue

Adafruit trinket

Power Booster

Lithium Ion Battery

SG90 Micro-servo motor

Software apps and online services

Arduino IDE

Hand tools and fabrication machines

Soldering iron (generic)

Servo Motor, Premium Male/Male Jumper Wires

Story

Hey Jayy here, your Favorite Oddity, I made these goggles for fun during a tough time, They became really popular making it on the cover of MAKE magazine issue 76. I was planning to use this build and try going into more of a business. But that's just not me. so I decided to make them open source and share them with the community.

Step 1: Print parts

Printing the parts should not be too hard when you have a 3d printer, I have sized everything for my creality Cr-10 but the files should fit most printers. I recommend starting with the “lens base” and “Servo Goggle Holders”

Example of the file

After these parts Are finished, you will want to glue them to the goggle frames using the 6000, glue. I chose this glue because it's strong and flexible. I also recommend having some clips to hold down the parts.

clip them like this if you can (Sorry for crap photo)

Quick Hint before you start glueing make sure the Lens base pointers are sitting at 1 o'clock and 11 o’clock (or 135 degrees and 45 degrees for you technical people) this way the actually eyebrow will move correctly trust me I have glued them wrong before and had a mess. Added a quick sketch if you’re more of a visual person like myself

Example Sketch

After that Make sure everything is clipped and let it dry overnight.

it should look like this after the glue has dried

Step 2: Lens

This is probably the hardest part, I got the original design from thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2019585)But I did alter the size and thickness for my project. 1st thing you want to do is print out the lens parts.

1 / 5

After you print the parts out you will have to carefully insert the leaves into the holes. Be patient and you may need to file the hole a bit to get them to fit easily. Once you have them insert you fold them in and insert them into the lens. This part may take some time and maybe a bit frustrating at moments but your patience shall be rewarded.

Test to make sure it working

Next you wanna Glue the Iris on top of the Lens Base using the E6000. You want to make sure that the pull switch is facing down and moving to open by going to the side. I drew a sketch just in case my wording is confusing.

Example Sketch

Example of how it should lay on the lens cover

Let it Dry overnight to make sure everything stays.

Step 3: Eyebrows and testing

After everything is glued on and secured, I recommend doing a testing, Print out the eyebrow parts, and the pulley hinges.

Attach the Eyebrows with the back hole facing outward, and use screws to attach them (Honestly don't know what size screws I kind of recycle screws into projects)

and grab 2 hobby servos. Attach the pulleys to a hobby servo horn and insert the servo’s into the servo holders, screw them in if you can. They should look something like this.

Next I recommend taking any board you can use to test the servos, and testing the movement moving 0 to 180 degrees. It should move kind of like this.

If it works then you can continue to the next part of the build.

Step 4: Preparing goggles and making boxes

I recommend starting the print for the Circuit cups, these will hold the circuit and the battery for the Goggles

OK here we get clever, so there is a wire on the inside of the goggles that will connect the two circuit boxes. I recommend taking a Dremel or some type of cutting instrument and making a small hole right behind the servo holder. Next after the Circuit cups have been printed, you shall want glue then to the back of the Servo Holder like so.

1 / 2 • Example

I recommend making sure some wire is through, you will need it for the power and maybe the servo as well.Of course let it dry overnight.

Step 5: Electronics

1st add the code to the Adafruit trinket. It's very Important.So this is where your tinker/Maker skills come though the diagram for this is a bit weird I daisy chain the signal wires from the Adafruit trinket, here is a quick diagram I drew up

I made a connector from a Permaboard, that way all the devices can share POWER!!

Next You will want to stick the power booster and the battery Lithium Ion, into one cup and the trinket and perm aboard packed into he other

1 / 2 • Examples

The program should be already Uploaded onto the trinket. You can stick the switch outside the circuit box of the batter holder, Screw in the covers to the circuit cups on and you’re done.

ExtraI made extra parts for Aesthetic reasons, these are the parts you can print for color designs, these parts can be glued to the eyebrows and the end of the lenses, I print them in different colors so they can look super coolThe program should be already Uploaded onto the trinket. You can stick the switch outside the circuit box of the batter holder, Screw in the covers to the circuit cups on and you’re done.

1 / 2

Schematics

Code

Random Code

// Trinket Servo Monster sketch
// Hardware: Adafruit Trinket (3V or 5V), micro servo, LED + resistor
// Libraries: uses Adafruit_TiCoServo library to manage servo pulses,
// even though NeoPixels are NOT being used here.

#if !defined(__AVR_ATtiny85__)
 #error "This code is for ATtiny boards"
#endif
#include <Adafruit_TiCoServo.h>
#include <avr/power.h>

// Servo parameters.  Pin MUST be 1 or 4 on a Trinket.  Servo position
// is specified in raw timer/counter ticks (1 tick = 0.128 milliseconds).
// Servo pulse timing is typically 1-2 ms, but can vary slightly among
// servos, so you may need to tweak these limits to match your reality.
#define SERVO_PIN  4 // Pins 1 or 4 are supported on Trinket
#define SERVO_MIN  4 // ~1 ms pulse
#define SERVO_MAX 26 // ~2 ms pulse

#define LED_PIN    0 // "Eye" LED is connected here

Adafruit_TiCoServo servo;

void setup(void) {
#if (F_CPU == 16000000L)
  // 16 MHz Trinket requires setting prescale for correct timing.
  // This MUST be done BEFORE servo.attach()!
  clock_prescale_set(clock_div_1);
#endif
  servo.attach(SERVO_PIN);
  pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);
}

uint32_t lastLookTime = 0; // Time of last head-turn

void loop(void) {

  unsigned long t = millis(); // Current time

  // If more than 1/2 second has passed since last head turn...
  if((t - lastLookTime) > 500) {
    if(random(10) == 0) { // There's a 1-in-10 chance...
      // ...of randomly moving the head in a new direction:
      servo.write(random(SERVO_MIN, SERVO_MAX));
      lastLookTime = t;   // Save the head-turn time for future reference
    }
  }

  // Unrelated to head-turn check,
  if(random(10) == 0) { // there's a 1-in-10 chance...
    // ...of an "eye blink":
    digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);  // The LED turns OFF
    delay(random(50, 250));      // for just a short random moment
    digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH); // then back ON
  }

  delay(100); // Repeat loop() about 10 times/second
}

Credits

Jorvon Moss

9 projects • 244 followers

Hi Odd Jayy Here I'm a tinker, who is design to make gadgets and robots, support me http://ko-fi.com/odd_jayy http://patreon.com/Odd_Jayy

Magpie Sci Goggles

Things used in this project

Hardware components

Software apps and online services

Hand tools and fabrication machines

Story

Custom parts and enclosures

Servo Holders

Right_Left_eye

Lens Base

Iris Leaf

Eyebrow Pully

Circuit cup

Aesthetic

Schematics

schematic

Code

Random Code

Credits

Jorvon Moss

Comments

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Magpie Sci Goggles

Magpie Sci Goggles

Things used in this project

Hardware components

Software apps and online services

Hand tools and fabrication machines

Story

Custom parts and enclosures

Servo Holders

Right_Left_eye

Lens Base

Iris Leaf

Eyebrow Pully

Circuit cup

Aesthetic

Schematics

schematic

Code

Random Code

Credits

Jorvon Moss

Comments

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