The Maker’s Toolbox: Bambu Lab H2D Review

The new Bambu Lab H2D is, in my opinion, the most influential 3D printer release of 2025. As such, it has received a lot of attention and everyone has their own thoughts. I’m here to add my own into the mix with this review of the Bambu Lab H2D 3D printer.

What’s new?

The H2D is Bambu Lab’s new flagship 3D printer, replacing the X1C as the leader of the fleet. But it is more than just a linear progression, because the H2D has a whole bunch of novel features that weren’t present on previous Bambu Lab models. It also has a substantial price tag to match. What do you get for that money? Here are some of the highlights:

• The H2D is a lot bigger — both the print volume and the overall physical size.
• The H2D has dual nozzles.
• The H2D has optional laser modules.
• The H2D has an optional cutting blade module.
• The H2D has a whole host of new sensors and cameras.
• The H2D has more advanced thermal management, including an active chamber heater and air venting solutions.
• The H2D has an optional vision encoder plate to dramatically improve accuracy.

That’s a lot! And alongside the H2D, Bambu Lab also released the AMS 2 Pro and the AMS HT.

Compared to the original AMS, the AMS 2 Pro has the following upgrades:

• Active filament drying.
• Faster filament feeding.
• Better access to PTFE tubes for maintenance.
• Ceramic filament inlets to support some abrasive filaments.

The AMS HT is an entirely new product. It is, essentially, a smaller AMS 2 Pro that contains just one spool of filament — though you can use multiple AMS HT units simultaneously for multi-material printing. In addition, it:

• Has even better filament drying capabilities (compared to the AMS 2 Pro).
• Supports even more materials — almost all of the filament materials that Bambu Lab offers.

We have a lot to cover, so let’s dive in by exploring each of the features and capabilities mentioned above.

The H2D is a lot bigger

I’ve been using the Bambu Lab P1S for a couple of years now. I knew the H2D was going to be bigger, but I was still surprised by how much bigger it was when it arrived on my doorstep.

The X1 and P1 series both have a build volume of 256×256×256mm. The H2D has a maximum build volume of 350×320×325mm.

I say “maximum,” because there is a gap on the left side where the right nozzle can’t reach and vice-versa. When printing with a single nozzle, the printing volume is 325×320×325mm. When printing something that requires both nozzles to reach the entire area, it is 300×320×325mm.

Even using that last figure, which doesn’t have any caveats, that gives you an 85% increase in total build volume.

And the H2D is physically bigger than what it would be if you scaled up an X1C proportionally, because there is so much extra hardware crammed into the enclosure. The chamber heater, fans, laser air assist pump, and all of the other additions take up space.

All of that to say that the H2D is very big. The overall size is 492×514×626mm and it weighs 31kg (about 68.3 pounds).

Whether or not that size matters is entirely up to you, but I definitely appreciate the increased build volume.

The H2D has dual nozzles

This is arguably the most attractive feature of the Bambu Lab H2D. With an AMS, Bambu Lab’s other printers are already capable of combining multiple colors and materials in a single print job. But the H2D’s dual nozzles make that much more efficient.

However, there seems to be some confusion about the dual nozzle functionality among prospective buyers. So, let me clear that up:

Nozzles cannot share filament sources!

So, if you get the AMS 2 Pro, it will only be able to feed a single nozzle. There isn’t any hardware to redirect filament from one nozzle to another. If you want to print multiple colors from the left nozzle and multiple colors from the right nozzle, you will need two AMS units.

I didn’t realize that until I set up my H2D, so I think it is important to note.

You can, however, connect multiple AMS units to each nozzle. The H2D supports up to four AMS 2 Pro and eight AMS HT units at once, for a total of 24 filament spools. You could, in theory, also add a 25th spool on the external holder — that would feed one nozzle and all 12 of the AMS units would go to the other.

The H2D does work with original AMS units and you can mix-and-match them. I am currently using an original AMS, an AMS 2 Pro, and an AMS HT all at the same time.

The dual nozzles improve efficiency (and lower print times) by reducing AMS filament changes. If you are, for example, only printing two colors (one for each nozzle), then the H2D’s AMS units never need to perform time-intensive filament changes.

Filament changes are still required if you’re printing more than two colors/materials, but Bambu Studio optimizes filament placement to decrease overall print time compared to an X1C or P1S with a single nozzle.

The H2D has optional laser modules

The H2D’s laser capabilities have been a hot topic in the community. Some see a laser as a useful option, while others absolutely hate the idea.

Why do people hate the idea of equipping the H2D with a laser? Because they believe the smoke and soot generated by the laser cutting/engraving will gum up the printer’s components (such as the rails) and cause problems.

Is that a valid concern? I’m not entirely sure. In my experience (which is pretty substantial), laser machines aren’t that dirty. And Bambu Lab says that this isn’t an issue. But it isn’t completely baseless and only time will tell if it will cause problems for owners. So far, I haven’t seen any noticeable buildup and there are documented cleaning procedures if necessary.

To take advantage of the laser at all, you will need to purchase a laser-ready version of the H2D. That version has protective windows, an air assist pump, an air vent, and the BirdsEye camera. You can't simply attach a laser module to a “normal” H2D — though Bambu Lab does plan to sell an upgrade kit in the future.

If you get the laser-ready H2D, then you can choose between a 10W and a 40W laser module. Both are blue diode lasers.

The 40W is obviously more powerful. It is also a bit bulkier, which reduces the maximum height of objects you can engrave/cut.

The 10W may have a slightly finer laser dot, which may improve fine detail. But I didn’t see enough of a difference in my testing to feel confident making claims about that.

Both modules perform well. They can cut wood, dark acrylic, rubber, and a few other less common materials. They can engrave those and a few others, like stone and metal*.

*metal engraving with blue diode lasers usually actually means engraving through a coating, like paint. But you can directly mark stainless steel — something that works much better with the 40W laser module.

The H2D Laser Combo with the 40W laser module is currently about $750 more than the version with the 10W laser module. That’s a pretty big difference, so you’ll want to think carefully about which you need.

I do think a dedicated laser machine would be a better option, but the H2D Laser Combo is a good solution if you’re limited on space or otherwise can’t justify a separate laser machine.

The H2D also has a very good camera for positioning your laser cuts, which is incredibly useful. And it will have a 3D mesh feature, which will be great for engraving on surfaces that aren’t flat. But that feature isn’t available yet, so I couldn’t test it.

There is also an available air purifier unit. I do recommend using an air purifier for filtration with a laser, but you don’t necessarily need to use Bambu Lab’s model. It is nice and well-made, but it is also pretty expensive. If you want to save some money, it might be worth buying a more affordable purifier from another manufacturer.

The H2D has a cutting blade module

This is, in my opinion, the H2D’s most overlooked feature. Nobody seems to be talking about it at all! But I think it is very useful.

The cutting module basically makes the H2D work like a Cricut to cut vinyl sheets and much more. But thanks to the BirdsEye camera for positioning, it has a lot more potential than I think people realize.

I actually made an entire video about this topic:

Now, I do need to point out that I was very wrong in that video about the Cricut’s capabilities, which is embarrassing. Cricut machines do have a “Print then Cut” feature and, when used with the iPad app, do have some camera-based placement tools.

Even so, the H2D’s cutting blade can be really useful and it is worth considering when making a purchasing decision.

And like with a Cricut, you can attach a marker or pen to draw things.

The H2D has a whole host of new sensors and cameras

When the Bambu Lab X1C hit the market, it was famous for its plethora of sensors. Well, the H2D has even more — a lot more.

Bambu Lab claims that the H2D has a total of 36 sensors, including the cameras. That sounds right, because there are a whole bunch of different things that the printer checks. For example, it knows if the door or top lid are open.

And like the X1C, it has an AI for monitoring prints to check for common failures. The X1C had lidar, but it seems that the H2D doesn’t. It does its monitoring through the cameras.

In my experience, that AI monitoring worked pretty well. I didn’t encounter any false positives and only had one situation in which it failed to detect an actual spaghetti failure. You can also adjust the sensitivity of that monitoring, if you want to make it more less aggressive.

In my opinion, the suite of sensors is mostly a good thing. The intelligence of Bambu Lab printers is part of why they’re so easy to use and so popular, with the H2D being a natural progression along that route.

But, of course, adding sensors always increases the potential for aberrant behavior. Is something actually wrong, or is a sensor malfunctioning? And because the H2D will not let the user proceed in some situations, a sensor malfunction could become a serious problem.

That is why many users compare Bambu Lab to Apple. Some people like this sort of system, because it is easy to use and works very well under normal circumstances. But it is a potential issue for people who want complete and total control over their printer.

The H2D has more advanced thermal management

This one is pretty straightforward and really doesn’t have any disadvantages, aside from the added bulk and cost.

The H2D has an active chamber heater, so it can increase the temperature inside the enclosure to suit materials that need it. It can also open a vent and push air out with a fan to cool the air in the enclosure, for materials like PLA.

For all of that to work, the H2D has sensors to monitor chamber temperature (and humidity).

This is all great, because it helps the H2D better handle a variety of materials. It reduces problems like warping or sagging, while improving print quality.

The H2D has an optional vision encoder plate

The vision encoder is an interesting accessory that I, unfortunately, haven’t yet received and so haven’t tested.

It is a build plate with a special pattern printed on its surface, which the H2D can look at with its camera to track the exact position of the toolhead.

That matters because it allows for very accurate closed-loop feedback. Instead of trusting that the motors move as expected, the H2D can visually check its actual position and correct itself in real-time.

Bambu Lab claims that can yield motion accuracy of 50µm, which is pretty incredible.

In theory, the result is improved print quality. Parts should be more dimensionally accurate and have smoother surfaces.

I will update this section when I receive the vision encoder plate and get a chance to test it.

The AMS 2 Pro

Is it worth upgrading from an AMS to an AMS 2 Pro? Should you purchase an AMS or AMS 2 Pro?

Simply put, the AMS 2 Pro is better than the AMS in every way. The only downside of the AMS 2 Pro is the price.

The AMS 2 Pro is faster, easier to maintain, handles more materials, and has active drying capabilities.

But it is still hard to answer the questions at the beginning of this section.

If you already own an AMS, I don’t personally think it is worth upgrading unless you really want the drying feature.

If you're purchasing something new anyway, it is probably worth paying extra for the AMS 2 Pro.

I’m using both an original AMS and an AMS 2 Pro (and AMS HT) with my H2D. Filament that benefits a lot from drying goes in the ASM 2 Pro, while basic PLA goes in the original AMS.

The AMS HT

If you cut the AMS 2 Pro down to hold a single spool of filament, you’d almost have an AMS HT.

The big difference is that the AMS HT has a better (hotter) dryer and handles a wider range of materials. Put four AMS HT units together and you’ve replicated the functionality of the AMS 2 Pro, except better.

I’ve seen some people in the 3D printing community doing exactly that. Personally, I don’t have much use for such a setup, because I don’t print exotic materials often. But I do like having the AMS HT there when I need it.

The great thing is that you can mix and match AMS, AMS 2 Pro, and AMS HT units to get the exact arrangement to suit your needs.

Just remember that each unit can only feed a single nozzle — right or left, but not both.

Extra stuff

There are a handful of factors and features that didn’t fit neatly into the sections above, so I’ll cover them here.

The light bar, for instance, is really cool! In front of the build plate, there is a long bar that lights up. And it isn’t just decorative. It provides an indication of the printer’s status. And it even shows the progress of the current job, increasing the illuminated section proportionally to the elapsed percentage of the job.

The green windows of the laser version of the H2D do kind of hamper that, because they tint everything green. But it is still cool.

The touchscreen control panel is fantastic. It looks nice and it is really responsive. You also get a great graphical interface for managing the AMS units, which I appreciated a lot.

I do wish the laser vent was on the side instead of the back, because that makes it harder to put the H2D on a shelf. The H2D is already big and attaching the vent hose makes it take up even more depth.

The connection system for switching between modules is great. The cutting module and laser modules slide right on (in front of the nozzles), with a quick-release clamp. Then you simply plug in the single cable. Smooth!

The internal camera and timelapse video quality is better than the P1S. It isn’t on the level of a professional mirrorless camera or anything, but it is an improvement.

Final thoughts

I’ve spent the last couple of months using the Bambu Lab H2D daily and I really like it. I’ve printed countless items, including a large sculpture with four different filaments that took almost 50 hours:

That long print resulted in a happy customer, who didn't think such a job was possible:

I have also cut a bunch of things with the cutting module, drawn things with the pen plotter, and engraved things with the 10W and 40W laser modules. And I can confidently say that the H2D is a fantastic machine — as it should be, considering the price tag.

Even if you only consider the 3D printing capabilities, then the dual nozzles, thermal management, and sensor suite make it very, very good. Throw in the cutting module and laser modules as nice bonus options, and you’ve got a serious piece of kit.

If you’ve owned a Bambu Lab printer before, like their vibe, and want something big, the H2D is a no-brainer.

If you don’t have any experience with Bambu Lab, you should know it is its own ecosystem — somewhat analogous to Apple with iOS and macOS. Everything from Bambu Lab works very well when you stay in that ecosystem, but you have less freedom to modify the printer and use software/hardware from third parties.

Only you can decide how you feel about that. Personally, as someone who has been using 3D printers for 15 years, I like that Bambu Lab printers just work. I can use them for my hobbies, rather than as my hobbies. If you feel similarly and want the best on the consumer/prosumer market, the Bambu Lab H2D is for you.`